Farewell Africa

My time here is up. I have been so blessed to be taken in by the community of AJAN and by the people of Kangemi. I will miss them all dearly (all except Luigi, and Anna the two german Shepards).
I said at one point that I would re-visit the topic of HIV/Aids.
Living at African Jesuits Aids Network (AJAN) this has been a topic of much discussion.
Why does Africa have such a problem with this disease?
My journey here while being thoroughly embedded in the community has not allowed me the time to fully articulate what is going on.
Instead here are two stories which paint some of the details.
John 24yo comes into the clinic with his mate. Fit muscular and smiling he asks for a TB test.
This is a strange request as he has no cough, no loss of weight and no night sweats. No contact with anyone he knows of that has active TB and when asked why he states
"I hear they are free"
The obvious query is 'why are you worried that you have the disease'. This isn't asked however as the answer is already known. TB is synonumus with Aids. You get Aids and the TB bug finally kills you. This is a well know fact amoungst Kenyans. He declines the option of a HIV test after thinking about it for a moment and leaves.

The 16yo mother that has no food to feed her children, no education to get a job, so must sell what she has and swallow all dignity. She contracts Aids in the process and gets pregnant a 2nd, 3rd, and 4th time - caught in the same cycle. She cannot afford the test and has no way of paying for her children to get any education whatsoever

There are plenty more. I could go on about the 4 year old girl brought in by her brother. She has Aids, most likely so does he. They cannot afford the test. Do you tell them both there and then - a clinical diagnosis most likely

A 35 year old lady from the slums of Kibera tells when asked if the

Christmas celebrations

Christmas here was fulfilling in many ways.


We started with Mass at Mbuguas place followed by roasted goat. I learnt the meaning of the phrase 'waste not want not' - and also how different parts of a goat are meant for different family members. i.e the ears and kidneys are for women and the liver and other certain cuts are for the men. I felt like asking if there were and special parts for Mazugoos but dare not, fearing the cultural corner I may back into (the head was still sitting there on the fireplace).


Interesting was the large number of children parading their new suits amoungst the slums. Striding out in front of mum and dad chest out, head high - you could tell from the walk this was the proudest day of their lives so far. Mbugua tells the story that each Christmas his family couldn't afford a present for each child, so they had to pick just 1 (of the 12 brothers and sisters). The members that missed out would share in the glory of the sibling for the next 3 days. Now days his brothers and sisters are living in California, all of them educated enough to get scholarships. It was a special time for them to all return home.


Our second feast of the day entailed a some what more traditional dinner at the Parish here in Kangemi. Run by a Ft from Boston we had the cranberry's, turkey and baked goods like any American normally would. No Ice cream for me though......Oh how I am hanging out!


It is my last full day here today, so last chance for any requests on African products....and yes Nick while I understand everyone else is doing it, and they are so cute, small children cannot get through customs.

The elders filling the goats intestines with blood and partial cooked meat for a traditional sausage.

Merry Christmas

I wanted to wish you all a very happy Christmas and a terrific new year. I will be thinking of you all as we indulge in goat heads soup, and sit with Mbuguas family for Christmas lunch and mass.
Keep well on our saviours birthday,

Blessings,

Ian

My Safari

Hello family and friends
In the past 96 hours I have been handed many lessons of Africa. Before I begin, it is worth mentioning that I am happy. I am happy that I can see, I am happy that I can eat, I am happy that I can sit here and write this message to you all.
Our journey to Masai Mara proved to be more of a typical old style Safari than one would have hoped.

Day 1
It began with the 9 of us including 5 Canadians, 2 Americans,1 Aussie and the Kenyan tour guide/driver, leaving 2 hours late….(although Mbugua claimed that this was ‘on time’ for any Kenyan). As we hoped in our driver push started the Mutatu style van (as the ignition didn’t work). 3 hours into the journey the smoke billowing from beside the driver’s seat made him reluctantly pull over. Our next Mutatu van was then called to continue the journey….from Nairobi. Sitting in the sun, we played Frisbee with the local masai children while they tended to their goats. The arrival of Fred our next driver turned out to be more of a blessing, as we ventured into the worst roads known to man. It had rained only one day before and the wheel ruts feet deep at times meant we spent half the time leaning at 45 degrees and riding on the wall of the tyre. Passing dozens of bogged vehicles and trucks I felt it was only a matter of time that I got muddied myself. To Freds credit he delivered us tated and battered from sliding and bouncing without a spot of mud to the “resort”. Mara Hippo as it was called was typical of the region. No phone, generator electricity for 4 hours every night and tan brown tap water.
Unfortunately Carmen (a Canadian that is also volunteering here) was feeling decidedly unwell. Her treatment for Malaria that was started a day before she left had not put her in good shape. As I tried to help her I noticed that the small red rash that had started under my eye was beginning to look a lot like shingles…...ophthalmic shingles. For those of you who have never heard of this, it can be dangerous.
We both slept that night….in scraps, 15 minutes at a time, and with many prayers.

Day 2
Rising at 6am, we embarked to discover the worlds best game park. As far as tourists go, we got the full package – Lions, Elephants, Rhinos, Hippo’s, Giraffes, mongoose, leopard, zebras, antelope, vultures, and many more. Fred trying to make up for the previous days failings planted the van in the direct path of every known animal and charged into any herd possible. God bless that man!
Much fun was had, the high point being the originally friendly bull elephant turning to charge down our vehicle and us getting jammed by the glut of tourist vehicles peering at what was going on. Luckily the elephant backed off at the last minute with a loud toot of the horn.


The day progressed fairly quickly, however Carmen was felling even worse taking only momentary glances at the animals before diving back into sleep, and I was analyzing any potential route towards medical attention, with the rash now enveloping my eye lid and blistering quiet badly. With all other options apart from the van and a very muddied track cut off (plane booked out), we had to try and enjoy our time.
Our next port of call was the Masai village. The Masai who are known typically for drinking cows blood, jumping very high and killing lions with just a spear, own the surrounding land of the National park.
Passing through the prickled bush fence designed to keep the lions out I realized they are known for certain other things also. They live in a world of excrement. The walls, floors, outside, inside, beds, roofs, and paths are all made out of cow dung. Poor Carmen who had lifted herself to get out of the vehicle was on the verge of fainting. Being shown around by the son of the chief I soon realized why the Masai are also known notoriously as the original entrepreneurs. I was taken to the store and given the hard sell on every item imaginable.
Getting away from the Masai as they haggled leaning in our bus window we went to our resort allowing Carmen to rest. Consulting with a doctor on our tour I decided that calling another practitioner from a neighboring resort was a good idea. It was not.
At his arrival we shook hands with what looked like a 16 year old in a white coat. He ventured to Carmen’s beside and pre-scribed anti-fungals for her ‘gastritis’. We gave him 200 shillings and asked him to leave. At this stage my eye was hurting badly and while wondering if I would loose my sight I went to sleep……waking to re-visit my dinner every so often. As I woke I heard the thunderous clap of lightening and the teaming of rain – we leave tomorrow via the same road.




Day 3
Wet, tired weak and aching we boarded the van for what I considered a frivolous exercise in driving home. There was little chance in my mind of making it back to Nairobi and me getting the medication I needed for my eye, and Carmen getting hers. We prayed as we hit the first flooded bridge and had to wait 1hour, we prayed also that the engine would not flood as we drove thru rivers up to the window ledge, we prayed as being dragged up a steep embankment the bus titled beyond what seemed 45degrees on two wheels, and we prayed each time we stopped to tighten the wheel that kept coming loose and half way off.
After 12 hours of stress (for a 4 hour journey)the impossible became possible and we rattled into Nairobi. God is good!

So that are the events of the last three days. To give you the current up date Carmen has her drugs and is getting better, I have my sight and stomach back and feel ready for Christmas dinner tomorrow.
I learned a lot of things – from the people ready to push us out of a bog, to the lack of pleasantries like fresh water, and a phone, but most of all the way these people face these hassels and just get on with life. I am happy that I have learnt these things. I am happy it is Christmas tomorrow.

Well today was my last day at the clinic. It was earlier than expected as my trip to Masai Mara was moved forward a day. I leave tomorrow morning (friday) for what has been explained as one of the wonders of the world. It is funny that most Kenyans I have spoken to (even those with money) have never been. I guess it is much like the Great Barrier reef in many respects.
The last time at the clinic was a little sad. I gave out a photo collage and they were thankful - at least I think they were. Whites here are seen as sources of money, (as I had explained to me) so gifts concomitant with this ideal are commonly expected.....as a uni student I felt oblidged to disappoint.
We also had a Chirstmas party here for all the staff and their families. It was a good time, and wonderful to see the children that Titus, James, Peter, Rose, and Joseph have so lovingly talked and talked about.
I was able to do some distributing of glow sticks and, balls and coloured pencils which makes for lighter luggage on the way home, and went down a treat. Some of the adults were getting more excited about the stuff than the kids!
These was a big meal and a few Africa as well as English style traditions. The worlds in my opinion come together quite well.

I will be away for three days on 'Safari' - sounds exotic I know. Really we will be driving around in a van nose stuck to the glass trying to make out whether it is a tuft of grass or a lions tail.
Thanks for the continuing emails, I will write in a few days to let you know my progress on the big five (elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard, and black rhino) although I think I already have my own big five within the slums that is much more entertaining.
May Godbless you all,
Your brother in Christ,
ian

Today was Christmas of sorts here in Kangemi. As a gesture towards the surrounding community, Ft Michael organizes 400 packages containing 1kg of a special flour (especially prized here for making japati a wheat based flat bread), some lollies and a letter. The kids were wild, and the adults extremely appreciative as we systematically knocked, gave and explained. The smiles, the joy and the animation are enough to fill a thousand dreams, a hundred boring lectures, and certainly my remaining time here.
Different to yesterday, the kids and families were somewhat aware of the goings on, it quickly becoming a yearly tradition (the children since discovering I come from AJAN have been asking me ‘what do we get this year?’).
Having the great honour to be able to deliver these gifts to householders is something I will never ever forget. As you walk to the door and knock there is often a hesitant peering through a crack then a slow opening. Many, it being their first time, didn’t understand the idea of a gift and once receiving stood stunned in the door way. Others invited us in for tea, sometimes so persistently it took a while to negotiate your get away.
Standing there watching I thought back over the many Christmas’s. Each child unwrapping the dozens of presents that have been piled under the tree, never once have I seen so many expressions of gratitude, so full of life than this December.
I will sleep well tonight and at least those in Kangemi shall sleep with a full stomach.

Me with Peter one of my boys from the AJAN gate

I would have taken the 20hour flight for that one moment. Their faces lit up in disbelief – some unable to contain it – running about and jumping in excitement as I unpacked and erected the toy aircraft. Wisely selected by my brother Stephen, this $2 gift showed me exactly what I have discovered from day 1; ‘My Boys’ that wait for me at the AJAN gate each afternoon are loving, kind and giving to a degree that I could only hope. Each getting a throw they ensured that no-one was left out. After a couple of minutes I sauntered over to take a picture, they thinking their fun was done – gratefully gave the plane and its packaging back. I stood trying to express “No it is yours to keep” at which point they started jumping and grinning once again.
Life is so much simpler here – not complicated by good’s and shackles. As my brother once said in passing “More things just means more stuff to look after” He is one person that lives it.
We crowd our lives with material possessions, cars, boats, and clothes, seeking the happiness they bring, but after a day, a week, or a month, it fades and something bigger needs to replace it. Happiness as the children of Kangemi, Korogocho, and Kibera most fluently display is inside, the plane today just allowed it to jump out.

Hi All,

Sunday again and yet another rest was badly needed. We managed to fit a lot in this morning including a weeks shopping. Walking into a mall designed for westerners here was turning back in time.

Everything had that western touch to it, from the tacky Christmas tunes, to the imaculate shop fronts - it seemed Bondi junction had landed in the middle Nairobis' chaos. It doesn't fit at all. The only way they are able to keep it so imaculate is with a large number of guards, electric fences, and huge, huge prices - something no normal Nairobian would be able to circumvent.

A much large issue to do with money and one that is closer to home is that of sponsorship.

Since being here I have made a few friends (yes believe it or not). Most of these at some point in time have mentioned the lack of education, support and the restrictions imposed by the poverty cycle - earning just enough to fill their families stomachs, no more.

Next is 'if only I had sponsorship - say $1 milloin shillings ($1300) would I be able to........(fill in the blank). I don't know what to do most of the time. At least they haven't asked me straight out, but I feel like I am in a position to do something. We are so rich (if anyone of you thought that you would be happy if you were a millionare, you actually already are - just come here and you could already buy one of the best houses in the richest suburbs, with servants). I feel I should give at least some of this away - it is not like I have ever worked harder than anyone here in Nairobi, ever washed clothes by hand, ever sold coal by the road for a few shllings - most of what I have is because I by the will of God was born in Australia.

Anyway it is food for thought - I still struggle with this, and am trying to see a way in which I can best help these people in need.

I thankyou still for the continuing emails. I will do my best to get back to you in the next few days, after such a hecktic weekend.

Here are some pics from Kibera on friday.......

Godbless, I am thinking of you all,

Ian

Hi Friends,
I feel my cultural meter is entirely full now. In the last 24 hours I have eaten goats intestines, been confronted by Wilderbeast, scared Zebras, and admired Flamingo's.
We travelled 2 hours 'up-country' on some of the worst roads known to man to a region called Nakuru. We managed to get into Lake Nakuru national park for half price (thanks to some handy enterprise barganing with the rangers by Mbugua) and to see some of the most majestic animals in the world.
The scenary here is amazing especially within the Rift valley, the home to 'Lucy' our well studied australopithecine for all those med students....(one of the biggest wastes of time med has produced for a while).
Everybit of the countryside is used for argriculture of some sort and the locals out there are even friendlier (if that is possible) than the Kangemian's.

Aids face to face

There are certain times in your life when you know that from that point on it will never be the same.
Finishing year 12, the death of a parent or close friend, the completion of uni. You know in your heart that things will be different.
After my morning at the clinic we went to Kibera. Kibera is another of the 200 slums that make up Nairobi. Worse again than Korogocho it is about 30 times as big and has a 70% positive HIV rate. We were shown around by a group called Hands of Love. These people go into the homes of those with Aids who are in desperate need. I thought after Korogocho I would be a little better prepared, and I was. There was a strench that scorched the air, floating excrement and rubbish where ever you walked. People lived in 3m x 2m huts on a much more primitive scale; made simple out of wood and mud squeezing 5 in the one bed. I was ready for it all, all except that one question.

The two guys from Hands of Love (Rassmusin and Stephen) took us to a ladies home. Built between three converging canals of sewage, with her weak frail body she welcomed the four of us in.
We couldn’t fit properly, but this seemed expected as we positioned for a seat. She laid before us some glass beads that she had made in hope of picking up 100 shillings (equivalent to $1). She was a HIV positive mother of four that had lost her husband in 1998 to HIV. They all lived in the 3m x 3m room sleeping while we sat. After discussing the stigma of HIV for a time it was her turn to ask questions. Without hesitation she directed the first question at me. With a direct gaze she calmly but forcefully spoke in her Swahili tongue as Rassmusin interpreted.

“I am living here in the slum of Kibera with my 4 children with nothing to eat. What is it that you have done in your life to help people like me with HIV?”

I sat a little stunned. That isn’t the type of question that you should ask someone that has come over from Australia to help. However, it was then I realized ‘what have I done?
I started to comment on how my government has provided money for ARV’s and this will in turn allow for cheaper drugs…...but then I realized this was a cop out….so I replied with the honest truth.

“very little”

It is easy to justify yourself and your lack of action/engagement on a issue when you talk to academics or the lay man in the street, “There are plenty of things I am doing, I cannot just help those with HIV, what about others that need help?” But when a HIV +’ve mother asks you can you pay my rent so I won’t get kicked out onto the street with my 4 children you are broken inside, broken for good.

Thursdays journal.....

Blackouts here are common. The power companies run a line to a suburb – delivery a certain voltage accordingly. Fortunately, for some and unfortunately for others the lines happen to run right past thousands of tin homes with dirt floors. For some reason at this point the power drops considerably and the huts become remarkably lighter. I guess I can be happy that we have blackouts so others can have some light in their lives.
It is with this in mind that I apologise for a lack of reply yesterday.
If I had had the opportunity to write I would have told you about the 26 year old deserter from the Congonese army with absolutely no money and suffering from Diabetes. Unable to work because he is an illegal, he is unable to return home as this will endanger him and his family (that knows nothing of his where-abouts). Unfortunately no money means no insulin and certain impending death when his pancreas completely burns out. I felt helpless.
Also another story for those buddy health professionals –
A 4year old girl presents with fever to the council health clinic (for those with no money). She leaves 3 minutes later with the following
Ampicillin – IM
Artemethasan – (too high a dose and used here as last line for malaria)
Antihistamine
Septrin (again too high a dose)
Paraceutamol
Amoxicllin
In Australia this doctor would be struck of the list, here there is no way of knowing who it was – no proper prescription format, no signatures – the doctor will remain nameless forever.
But enough of the depressing stuff for now. Here are some pictures from my walk to work today……

Godbless, dacktori (doctor) Ian
The mornings I feel short of love I am loaded up on the path before I get to the clinic - You are made to feel special. People stop to shake my hand and most stop to look up. The kids are just wonderful with their Mazugoos.

The Aids fight - These are the children of the crisis centre -

- Left to right - Beth (full time staff) Grace, and Tony sitting with Sister Augustino

My inner-most fears

Things that scare me in Africa.
1. Our compound is home to 2 German shepards that dream of tearing me limb from limb. They salivate and bare all their glistening teeth each time I pass their cage. At night they are set free. It makes for a super quiet sprint to the bathroom (located 15m outside my room) each time I know I cannot hang on any longer. I don my socks, check all is clear and slowly, slowly turn the handle on my heavy wooden door. I haven't been caught yet, but I fear it is only a matter of time.

2. Mosquitos - despite the solid academic advice that Aedes ageypti (the carrier of malaria) do not live at this altitude, the numbers of cases I have seen at the clinic has me ducking for cover, or launching an all out offensive against any flying arthropod.

3. Manduzi -
These delicious wheat based, deep fried surgary triangles hide so much pain. Made by the side of the road on my way to work, Mbugua testifies that the entrepreneurs use the same oil for 2-3 weeks. After my first morning tea at the clinic my stomach told me the same thing.

4. Matutu's - These have already been discussed. Mobile sardine tins - They pose a potential risk to the occupants, other drivers and anyone within a 1km radius.

Korogocho by Nikon

Sister and Mbugua discuss the proposed renovations to the counselling centre.

Unfortunately these pictures don't capture the real Korogocho. Photograhy is a dangerous past time - not recomended by even the locals; so most are taken away from the crowds.

Jamburi Day

Pure happiness was found today.

December the 12th is known as Jamhuri day, a 43 year celebration of independance from colonial rule. The governement run a large celebration/performance in the centre of town which is depicted on national TV. There are planes, bands, and public addresses all rejoicing over the last 43 years.

We didn't go.
Korogocho is a small segment of land approximately 1km by 2km wide. It lies just on the east of the city. We could here the noise and see the jets as they twirled around above, but for the most part no one took any notice as we walked.

Korogocho is home to between 120,000 and 150,000 people. As slums go it not the worst, but it does make Kangemi look like up-market suburbia.

The smells sear your nostrils, the flies and dust make you squint as you choke on the smoke of burning rubbish. There are thousands of people crowding around, the children grabbing at the white hands dangled by your side.

Here we met Sister Agastino who has worked living in the slum for the past 5 years. She runs a hospice for those sick and dying of Aids. Each day she meets those who are forgotten by families tossed out to die. They take them in and insert love into their last months of life.

They also run programs for ARV (anti-retro viral) administration and home counseling services

for those stricken with the disease.

I physically felt my heart ache as we where brought to a 'crisis centre' where children have lost parents to Aids and also have the disease are taken in. Words fail to express the hurt as we met Faith as little 14 month old girl who has no known realtives and has HIV.

Faith with Mbugua

Money comes by the grace of God via NGO's and any businesses that wants to lend a hand, but the real heros are these ladies who have dedicated their lives to this work. They are hidden to the world, doing work through the love of Jesus Christ....they are amazing!

My pain however was mixed with a strange sense of confusion. This was given clarity when speaking to one of the workers. "They are happy" Those three words rang in my ears the whole day. Who could anyone living inches away from a open sewer be happy? How could anyone who knew that there was no chance of having an education, a profession, or a home be content?

But I knew it was true. The children with their laughs, their games, and enormous smiles. The women with gaggles as we passed. These people should be the ones on prozac not the West. If you are searching for happiness - I found it.

More interesting people

Habori (hello),

Joseph our chef with the

biggest Avocado ever

Another day at the clinic and I am surprised that I am still getting surprised. One pretty huge goitre, some secondary syphilis, a couple of beatings and a lady who was attacked by rats. When does it stop?

I am still on the outer in the majority of consults with my lack of Swahili - getting the summary of the history from Robert and then asked for a diagnosis. It is funny how much can be picked up without understanding even one word though.
Father Michael has left for the states at the moment and I am here with Mbugua, Michael and the staff. The staff have the most interesting stories. Just then at lunch I discovered our chef, Joseph is caring for three families. His own, and four other girls, whose fathers (2 of Josephs brothers) died from Aids. He used to work at a 5 star international restuarant however took up this position because of stability and the guarantee of a constant income (which I can now understand he would definately need).
An issue continually the focus of conversation here is that of education. It seems every Kenyan talks about the difficulites involved. The government pays for a primary education, but from there (High school and university/diplomas) it must be fully funded by the person. This equates to the rich staying rich and the poor staying poor. Many wish to continue on but without the Kenyan Shillings cannot and so take up jobs that pay very little to just fill their stomachs.

It is a perpetual cycle, one no matter how motivated and smart the individual is will not be beaten. I now understand why we are 'The lucky country'.

The boys working hard...... so okay it was tea-break time and Dr Robert was educating me on the role of government or something.

Sunday rest

Hi all,
Today has been a day of rest. I felt like I needed - maybe not deserved, but needed all the same.
I went to mass here in Kangemi. This is an experience never to be missed. The choir are even better than the group at the wedding. Standing there listening felt surreal. Not that I could understand a word of it.
It is like the entire community goes to church and it must have been 800 people at the third mass of the day.
The kids were off-loading their Mazugoo's and favourite english phrases. It seems that every little one can say 'How are you?' (pronounced hoae-r-u?)
Where they learn this from is a mystery - but i have learnt to respond with 'fine' as it is the only other english word that they understand. They get a real kick out of it, that and me waving to them. I cannot comprehend a life where one of the highlights is some white guy on uni break paying you attention.

One of the speakers had the T-shirt "Fight Aids now - Keep your promise"
From a beginners perspective the Aids fight is an enormous battle. It seems that the disease is more a symptom, than the problem itself. Why do people get HIV? This answer is so multifactorial I dare not try and summarise it here. You really have to stop the surrounding events not the disease itself (wow those public health lectures really did pay off!).
What can we do about it? Love them, and care for them - That is a good start, at least you cannot go wrong with it.
I have been reading a bit on HIV, but more about this topic later......
I met a Kenyan named Johosophat today, a school teacher by profession. He like so many others that I have met here have given their lives up for others. He works at a school in a slum on the other side of the city. They take in street kids (some 700) in the school, and give them a free primary education. Some of the lucky ones are sponsored to go on to study at highschool. A brave man - he tells me of the guns, knives and tuff personalities these kids develop just to survive on the streets (sounds like Canobolas).

Hearing from all those people who have written - thankyou, it does mean a lot and makes my day.

Peter our driver showing off
a new addition to his wardrobe.

Godbless, Ian


PS - You may be surprised to hear that Australia made the news here today. The bush fires raging in victoria and the snowies -no good, I will keep them in my prayers.

Chameleon -and yes they really do change colour right in front of your eyes.

This is where I have been working. Don't worry boys - no refining of my 'minor surgery' skills here.

Left to right - Michael and Mbugua. We are admiring Mbuguas home coffee factory built by his father. These guys have been the most wonderful friends to me, explaining more of Kenya and the culture than what I could have ever hoped. They are both working at AJAN, (Mbugua as a Jesuit to be) and true examples of Christs love.

Wedding

My first Kenyan wedding today - and boy am I exhausted! So much colour, dancing, and singing.....words cannot describe it.

I felt a little out of place, (being the only white man amoung the cast of 400) but slowly this is starting to grow on me. I undestand part of celebrity status now -everywhere I go people want to shake hands and meet the mazugoo (white guy).

Also I have decided that I will be flying over the choir of 30 for my wedding, (don't care how much it costs they are definately worth it).

There were a number of memorable events that occured today. The road crew shuvelling hot tar by hand on to a even hotter road for a highway, the huge eagle that swooped down to steal our food, the chest high monkey that we missed by inches while driving, and the many thousands of corrigated iron shanties housing people with huge smiles.

A piece of advice not given to me nor in anything I read, concerns driving in Nairobi. If there are any pure fears I have here, it is this.

Yesterday the back page of the paper proudly displayed 1,900 road deaths since the start of the year. I am shocked that it is only this many. Pot holes the depth of the entire wheel appear commonly on the 'major' highway. There are no lanes at 100km nor any indicators when over taking. Mutoto's (8 seater vans holding 20 acting as taxis and stop anywhere at anytime, and I emphasise anywhere) rule the roads and with all honesty make life endangering decisions where-ever they go. It makes Dream-world look lame. You cannot help but grit your teeth and hold on.

I thank you all for the continuing emails and thoughts - they really mean a lot, and are keeping me going on the tuff days. I am really starting to love this place.

Hope to hear from you all soon,

ian

Health care

My clinical experience took a fresh turn today.

Robert the new graduate from Kenyatta medical school arrived running me through my paces. It was good, despite the nurses experience there is no substitute for a medical education.

At least together now we can work most things out. I cover all the rare stuff like high blood pressure and he covers all the common things like malaria, and Entamoeba Histolytica (amoebiasis).

I diagnosed my first case of Typhoid today - thought I should gloat a little - funny thing was the patient wasn't perturbed by it. More or less stating that she was in a rush and could we give her the drugs so she could leave - SHE HAD TYPHOID!!!!! Anyone in Australia would be moaning and groaning, writing a will and calling all the family - my patient got up and left.

I did also have my heart broken today - 2 children came in - one the bother of a little 4 yr old girl. Her eyes so wide, her clothes so big and worn through, she stopped at the door shocked to see a white man. The tight woven rows she had in her hair told me that she was at least loved by someone at home. Brother (no older than 11) explained how she had a sore throat. More swahili questioning from Robert revealed mum was also sick a lot. I caught her stealing more enquiring glances at the white man - each time with a expression of profound wonder. She was small and at least 2kilos below a normal weight. Leaning over the examine her throat she tentiviely opened wide and I found the characteristic white plaques of candida. I prayed for her. I ask you to also. HIV will claim another life; snuff it out without the world even realising what has happened, but God will know. This will not pass un-noticed, He loves, cries and aches for each of His children.

Please pray tonight for those that will not have a full life, and pray that they may come to know our Lord Jesus Christ,

Tomorrow I go to a Kenyan wedding, any luck and I may find my self a wife............ MUM I am joking !!!

ian

Lunch time thoughts

Today has been interesting. My invitation to attend a taskforce group, setup to run the 'The World Social Forum' in Kenya, allowed me to establish some contacts in a slum the other side of Nairobi - called Konogocho. I will be visiting there in the next week.
I did say yesterday 4 interesting people. If any of you are good at maths you may have picked up on this error.
My 4th chance encounter was with Titus the guard. He has a number of degrees and no end of wisdom, yet because of unemployment cannot find a job in Kenya. He still needs to work and so has taken what he sees as a privileged position of day time guard here at AJAN. It is a good position as its secure and provides the princely sum of $150 a month. Yes that is 6am til 6pm. Yet he is very happy. Someone please up-date me on the progression of the new IR laws back home......

Other interests for those medically inclined of you include the high rate of TB and malaria. The top two tests I have ordered so far include a zeil neilson and a thin and thick smear. At least it makes your differential diagnosis easy.
So far I have been struggling a bit with the swahili and am very grateful for the nurses with their great wealth of knowledge and language skills. I am sure that I have been more of a hinderance than a help.
Thanks for the emails they are making my day - even if I am lacking in my replies.
Please also keep the prayers rolling in, they are needed here both for me the Mugoto (white man) and the precious children.

Blessings, ian

The 'white man' at clinic.

Kenya is a country of contrasts.
Wealth and poverty, health and sickness, immense joy and heart wrenching sadness.

If you have the time to talk to those around you it could fill a hundred books, all of them bestsellers.
I spoke with four very interesting people today.
The first was Joseph. He has been working with Aids orphans and set up a program that schools 80 of them through primary, secondary and university education. He does this with no money for himself and only donations to run the education. The second was Father Michael, the head of AJAN and a Canadian Jesuit, he has many years of experience and no end of contacts. He has taken me under his wing and entertains me with interesting perspectives on the Aids fight.
The third was Antonio the labratory diagnostician - a very talented man that requires next to no equipment to diagnose HIV, Tuberculosis, Malaria, and many of the prolific diarroheal illnesses. Seeing him at work would make our scientists shudder, but he gets the job done.

I have discovered that if you have the time most will let you behind the scenes of their lives.
Nairobi is a transparent city. No hiding behind fast cars, tinted windows, layers of make-up and perfume. All of life is there for you to see - life and all its boldness. It is a refreshing change, well for the first few days anyway.
Tomorrow I have been invited to meet with some of the leaders of Aids missionaries here in Africa. I feel that I am a little out of my depth.
I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks for everyones thoughts,
Godbless, Ian

arrival

Hi,

Well flights and arrival were particulary easy on me - although I am sure jet lag will set in soon, so excuse any spelling mistakes.

My first impressions won't be forgotten for a long time.

Primitive is one word for it, but at the same time it fails to describe the joy and happiness everyone has.

The kids playing with a camellion; the smiles as wide as anyones face and the running and laughing.

But then there is the security that points towards impending danger whereever you go......it seems strange. It couldn't be these same people surely?

Mbugua the scholastic (jesuit in training that is organising my stay) found it particulary funny that my parents were fearful of my travels here. Apparently Nairobi is "just like any other city in the world". The road blocks, 24 hour security, 2 german shepards, and razor wire fence needed just for our compound tells me this isn't quiet true.

My work at the clinic starts tomorrow. On average each of the clinical supervisors (there are 4) see 200 patients a day! What is that about Australian doctors being overworked?

JCU would be horrified to hear that there isn't time enough to discuss "How that makes you feel?" types questions. Think all those HIP lectures gone out the window.

I hope you are all well, thanks for all the emails - I will try to get back to you soon,

- ian -

The trip

Hi All,

Well tomorrow it starts. 1 month of experience in the community of Kangemi. Some 30 minutes drive west from the city centre of Nairobi, Kangemi is home to approximately 120,000 people - a slum, and has approximately 46% unemployment.

I have been lucky enough to be accomodated at the local health clinic; what this will involve is anyones guess so your prayers will be appreciated. HIV is rife as is TB and muggings (they don't call it Nai'robbery' for nothing).

During my time I will be staying with a group called African Jesuits Aids Mission (AJAN).

Their website is www.jesuitaids.net and outlines the work they have been doing here for the past years.

I will, if I can, ask for your prayers - I feel I may be needing them.

ian