Sunday, December 24, 2006

My Safari

Hello family and friends
In the past 96 hours I have been handed many lessons of Africa. Before I begin, it is worth mentioning that I am happy. I am happy that I can see, I am happy that I can eat, I am happy that I can sit here and write this message to you all.
Our journey to Masai Mara proved to be more of a typical old style Safari than one would have hoped.

Day 1
It began with the 9 of us including 5 Canadians, 2 Americans,1 Aussie and the Kenyan tour guide/driver, leaving 2 hours late….(although Mbugua claimed that this was ‘on time’ for any Kenyan). As we hoped in our driver push started the Mutatu style van (as the ignition didn’t work). 3 hours into the journey the smoke billowing from beside the driver’s seat made him reluctantly pull over. Our next Mutatu van was then called to continue the journey….from Nairobi. Sitting in the sun, we played Frisbee with the local masai children while they tended to their goats. The arrival of Fred our next driver turned out to be more of a blessing, as we ventured into the worst roads known to man. It had rained only one day before and the wheel ruts feet deep at times meant we spent half the time leaning at 45 degrees and riding on the wall of the tyre. Passing dozens of bogged vehicles and trucks I felt it was only a matter of time that I got muddied myself. To Freds credit he delivered us tated and battered from sliding and bouncing without a spot of mud to the “resort”. Mara Hippo as it was called was typical of the region. No phone, generator electricity for 4 hours every night and tan brown tap water.
Unfortunately Carmen (a Canadian that is also volunteering here) was feeling decidedly unwell. Her treatment for Malaria that was started a day before she left had not put her in good shape. As I tried to help her I noticed that the small red rash that had started under my eye was beginning to look a lot like shingles…...ophthalmic shingles. For those of you who have never heard of this, it can be dangerous.
We both slept that night….in scraps, 15 minutes at a time, and with many prayers.

Day 2
Rising at 6am, we embarked to discover the worlds best game park. As far as tourists go, we got the full package – Lions, Elephants, Rhinos, Hippo’s, Giraffes, mongoose, leopard, zebras, antelope, vultures, and many more. Fred trying to make up for the previous days failings planted the van in the direct path of every known animal and charged into any herd possible. God bless that man!
Much fun was had, the high point being the originally friendly bull elephant turning to charge down our vehicle and us getting jammed by the glut of tourist vehicles peering at what was going on. Luckily the elephant backed off at the last minute with a loud toot of the horn.


The day progressed fairly quickly, however Carmen was felling even worse taking only momentary glances at the animals before diving back into sleep, and I was analyzing any potential route towards medical attention, with the rash now enveloping my eye lid and blistering quiet badly. With all other options apart from the van and a very muddied track cut off (plane booked out), we had to try and enjoy our time.
Our next port of call was the Masai village. The Masai who are known typically for drinking cows blood, jumping very high and killing lions with just a spear, own the surrounding land of the National park.
Passing through the prickled bush fence designed to keep the lions out I realized they are known for certain other things also. They live in a world of excrement. The walls, floors, outside, inside, beds, roofs, and paths are all made out of cow dung. Poor Carmen who had lifted herself to get out of the vehicle was on the verge of fainting. Being shown around by the son of the chief I soon realized why the Masai are also known notoriously as the original entrepreneurs. I was taken to the store and given the hard sell on every item imaginable.
Getting away from the Masai as they haggled leaning in our bus window we went to our resort allowing Carmen to rest. Consulting with a doctor on our tour I decided that calling another practitioner from a neighboring resort was a good idea. It was not.
At his arrival we shook hands with what looked like a 16 year old in a white coat. He ventured to Carmen’s beside and pre-scribed anti-fungals for her ‘gastritis’. We gave him 200 shillings and asked him to leave. At this stage my eye was hurting badly and while wondering if I would loose my sight I went to sleep……waking to re-visit my dinner every so often. As I woke I heard the thunderous clap of lightening and the teaming of rain – we leave tomorrow via the same road.




Day 3
Wet, tired weak and aching we boarded the van for what I considered a frivolous exercise in driving home. There was little chance in my mind of making it back to Nairobi and me getting the medication I needed for my eye, and Carmen getting hers. We prayed as we hit the first flooded bridge and had to wait 1hour, we prayed also that the engine would not flood as we drove thru rivers up to the window ledge, we prayed as being dragged up a steep embankment the bus titled beyond what seemed 45degrees on two wheels, and we prayed each time we stopped to tighten the wheel that kept coming loose and half way off.
After 12 hours of stress (for a 4 hour journey)the impossible became possible and we rattled into Nairobi. God is good!

So that are the events of the last three days. To give you the current up date Carmen has her drugs and is getting better, I have my sight and stomach back and feel ready for Christmas dinner tomorrow.
I learned a lot of things – from the people ready to push us out of a bog, to the lack of pleasantries like fresh water, and a phone, but most of all the way these people face these hassels and just get on with life. I am happy that I have learnt these things. I am happy it is Christmas tomorrow.

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