Reflections

"Reality is usually odd. It is not neat, not obvious, not what you expect".

CS LEWIS

Hear the word Africa and it congers certain thoughts. You may drift to the Serengeti and the gorillas, the vast plains of buffalo, and elephant; perhaps the odd giraffe or lion. Before long however you come to the people, the life blood of the Africas. At this point you may think of their new found freedom, or the struggle of Mandela, almost without exception though you come to the pain, suffering, povery, and death. Kenya has an average age of 45 years, in Africa HIV kills 6,500 people a day and the root cause of 1.2 million new orphans - with these figures you can not help but think this place is a living hell.
What I was to experience however was far from it. Spending a little under 1 month in the slums of Nairobi I realised my life has only ever been half full. In the slums I found friendships with a people so full of life that every moment was filled with the gaggles of happiness and giving from heart. It was at this that I realised that life could be so much more.
I suspect that most of us (Australians) realise this too. I suspect that each party pill sold in this new booming epidemic is not because of mere stupidity. Instead these individuals know deep down that there must be more. They desire, they yearn for something else. I cannot begin to explain how we got ourselves into this mess but what I can now see is the insight our 'Clubbers' have had for a while. Life in the West is missing something.

I guess the question is why are we, as such smart people, continuing to run from the answers? Perhaps some of us haven't the clarity on the question - I didn't. But perhaps we are searching the wrong place for the answers. Take a look into the lives of those at Falls, the clubs, and other festivals and ask yourself 'is this the way?'.
Coming back from the poorest continent in the world I realise as an Australian in 2007 I have more luxuries than almost anyone who has walked before me - in all of time. But we as Aussies have a void. Our logic tries to hide it from us. Subtely nawing at you 'You have health, friends, and cool stuff to make you complete, you have all you need. Look inside far enough though and you will find a void that cannot be filled with the new IPOD, or latest Diesal product. I guarantee it!

Going to Africa I experienced a reality I did not expect, it was odd, it was not neat, but it made me look at look inside myself in a very simliar way as a rich young ruler over 2000 years ago when he asked the question
" What does thou lackest?"
It is my prayer that each and every Australian is ready for the answer.

Farewell Africa

My time here is up. I have been so blessed to be taken in by the community of AJAN and by the people of Kangemi. I will miss them all dearly (all except Luigi, and Anna the two german Shepards).
I said at one point that I would re-visit the topic of HIV/Aids.
Living at African Jesuits Aids Network (AJAN) this has been a topic of much discussion.
Why does Africa have such a problem with this disease?
My journey here while being thoroughly embedded in the community has not allowed me the time to fully articulate what is going on.
Instead here are two stories which paint some of the details.
John 24yo comes into the clinic with his mate. Fit muscular and smiling he asks for a TB test.
This is a strange request as he has no cough, no loss of weight and no night sweats. No contact with anyone he knows of that has active TB and when asked why he states
"I hear they are free"
The obvious query is 'why are you worried that you have the disease'. This isn't asked however as the answer is already known. TB is synonumus with Aids. You get Aids and the TB bug finally kills you. This is a well know fact amoungst Kenyans. He declines the option of a HIV test after thinking about it for a moment and leaves.

The 16yo mother that has no food to feed her children, no education to get a job, so must sell what she has and swallow all dignity. She contracts Aids in the process and gets pregnant a 2nd, 3rd, and 4th time - caught in the same cycle. She cannot afford the test and has no way of paying for her children to get any education whatsoever

There are plenty more. I could go on about the 4 year old girl brought in by her brother. She has Aids, most likely so does he. They cannot afford the test. Do you tell them both there and then - a clinical diagnosis most likely

A 35 year old lady from the slums of Kibera tells when asked if the

Christmas celebrations

Christmas here was fulfilling in many ways.


We started with Mass at Mbuguas place followed by roasted goat. I learnt the meaning of the phrase 'waste not want not' - and also how different parts of a goat are meant for different family members. i.e the ears and kidneys are for women and the liver and other certain cuts are for the men. I felt like asking if there were and special parts for Mazugoos but dare not, fearing the cultural corner I may back into (the head was still sitting there on the fireplace).


Interesting was the large number of children parading their new suits amoungst the slums. Striding out in front of mum and dad chest out, head high - you could tell from the walk this was the proudest day of their lives so far. Mbugua tells the story that each Christmas his family couldn't afford a present for each child, so they had to pick just 1 (of the 12 brothers and sisters). The members that missed out would share in the glory of the sibling for the next 3 days. Now days his brothers and sisters are living in California, all of them educated enough to get scholarships. It was a special time for them to all return home.


Our second feast of the day entailed a some what more traditional dinner at the Parish here in Kangemi. Run by a Ft from Boston we had the cranberry's, turkey and baked goods like any American normally would. No Ice cream for me though......Oh how I am hanging out!


It is my last full day here today, so last chance for any requests on African products....and yes Nick while I understand everyone else is doing it, and they are so cute, small children cannot get through customs.

The elders filling the goats intestines with blood and partial cooked meat for a traditional sausage.

Merry Christmas

I wanted to wish you all a very happy Christmas and a terrific new year. I will be thinking of you all as we indulge in goat heads soup, and sit with Mbuguas family for Christmas lunch and mass.
Keep well on our saviours birthday,

Blessings,

Ian

My Safari

Hello family and friends
In the past 96 hours I have been handed many lessons of Africa. Before I begin, it is worth mentioning that I am happy. I am happy that I can see, I am happy that I can eat, I am happy that I can sit here and write this message to you all.
Our journey to Masai Mara proved to be more of a typical old style Safari than one would have hoped.

Day 1
It began with the 9 of us including 5 Canadians, 2 Americans,1 Aussie and the Kenyan tour guide/driver, leaving 2 hours late….(although Mbugua claimed that this was ‘on time’ for any Kenyan). As we hoped in our driver push started the Mutatu style van (as the ignition didn’t work). 3 hours into the journey the smoke billowing from beside the driver’s seat made him reluctantly pull over. Our next Mutatu van was then called to continue the journey….from Nairobi. Sitting in the sun, we played Frisbee with the local masai children while they tended to their goats. The arrival of Fred our next driver turned out to be more of a blessing, as we ventured into the worst roads known to man. It had rained only one day before and the wheel ruts feet deep at times meant we spent half the time leaning at 45 degrees and riding on the wall of the tyre. Passing dozens of bogged vehicles and trucks I felt it was only a matter of time that I got muddied myself. To Freds credit he delivered us tated and battered from sliding and bouncing without a spot of mud to the “resort”. Mara Hippo as it was called was typical of the region. No phone, generator electricity for 4 hours every night and tan brown tap water.
Unfortunately Carmen (a Canadian that is also volunteering here) was feeling decidedly unwell. Her treatment for Malaria that was started a day before she left had not put her in good shape. As I tried to help her I noticed that the small red rash that had started under my eye was beginning to look a lot like shingles…...ophthalmic shingles. For those of you who have never heard of this, it can be dangerous.
We both slept that night….in scraps, 15 minutes at a time, and with many prayers.

Day 2
Rising at 6am, we embarked to discover the worlds best game park. As far as tourists go, we got the full package – Lions, Elephants, Rhinos, Hippo’s, Giraffes, mongoose, leopard, zebras, antelope, vultures, and many more. Fred trying to make up for the previous days failings planted the van in the direct path of every known animal and charged into any herd possible. God bless that man!
Much fun was had, the high point being the originally friendly bull elephant turning to charge down our vehicle and us getting jammed by the glut of tourist vehicles peering at what was going on. Luckily the elephant backed off at the last minute with a loud toot of the horn.


The day progressed fairly quickly, however Carmen was felling even worse taking only momentary glances at the animals before diving back into sleep, and I was analyzing any potential route towards medical attention, with the rash now enveloping my eye lid and blistering quiet badly. With all other options apart from the van and a very muddied track cut off (plane booked out), we had to try and enjoy our time.
Our next port of call was the Masai village. The Masai who are known typically for drinking cows blood, jumping very high and killing lions with just a spear, own the surrounding land of the National park.
Passing through the prickled bush fence designed to keep the lions out I realized they are known for certain other things also. They live in a world of excrement. The walls, floors, outside, inside, beds, roofs, and paths are all made out of cow dung. Poor Carmen who had lifted herself to get out of the vehicle was on the verge of fainting. Being shown around by the son of the chief I soon realized why the Masai are also known notoriously as the original entrepreneurs. I was taken to the store and given the hard sell on every item imaginable.
Getting away from the Masai as they haggled leaning in our bus window we went to our resort allowing Carmen to rest. Consulting with a doctor on our tour I decided that calling another practitioner from a neighboring resort was a good idea. It was not.
At his arrival we shook hands with what looked like a 16 year old in a white coat. He ventured to Carmen’s beside and pre-scribed anti-fungals for her ‘gastritis’. We gave him 200 shillings and asked him to leave. At this stage my eye was hurting badly and while wondering if I would loose my sight I went to sleep……waking to re-visit my dinner every so often. As I woke I heard the thunderous clap of lightening and the teaming of rain – we leave tomorrow via the same road.




Day 3
Wet, tired weak and aching we boarded the van for what I considered a frivolous exercise in driving home. There was little chance in my mind of making it back to Nairobi and me getting the medication I needed for my eye, and Carmen getting hers. We prayed as we hit the first flooded bridge and had to wait 1hour, we prayed also that the engine would not flood as we drove thru rivers up to the window ledge, we prayed as being dragged up a steep embankment the bus titled beyond what seemed 45degrees on two wheels, and we prayed each time we stopped to tighten the wheel that kept coming loose and half way off.
After 12 hours of stress (for a 4 hour journey)the impossible became possible and we rattled into Nairobi. God is good!

So that are the events of the last three days. To give you the current up date Carmen has her drugs and is getting better, I have my sight and stomach back and feel ready for Christmas dinner tomorrow.
I learned a lot of things – from the people ready to push us out of a bog, to the lack of pleasantries like fresh water, and a phone, but most of all the way these people face these hassels and just get on with life. I am happy that I have learnt these things. I am happy it is Christmas tomorrow.

Well today was my last day at the clinic. It was earlier than expected as my trip to Masai Mara was moved forward a day. I leave tomorrow morning (friday) for what has been explained as one of the wonders of the world. It is funny that most Kenyans I have spoken to (even those with money) have never been. I guess it is much like the Great Barrier reef in many respects.
The last time at the clinic was a little sad. I gave out a photo collage and they were thankful - at least I think they were. Whites here are seen as sources of money, (as I had explained to me) so gifts concomitant with this ideal are commonly expected.....as a uni student I felt oblidged to disappoint.
We also had a Chirstmas party here for all the staff and their families. It was a good time, and wonderful to see the children that Titus, James, Peter, Rose, and Joseph have so lovingly talked and talked about.
I was able to do some distributing of glow sticks and, balls and coloured pencils which makes for lighter luggage on the way home, and went down a treat. Some of the adults were getting more excited about the stuff than the kids!
These was a big meal and a few Africa as well as English style traditions. The worlds in my opinion come together quite well.

I will be away for three days on 'Safari' - sounds exotic I know. Really we will be driving around in a van nose stuck to the glass trying to make out whether it is a tuft of grass or a lions tail.
Thanks for the continuing emails, I will write in a few days to let you know my progress on the big five (elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard, and black rhino) although I think I already have my own big five within the slums that is much more entertaining.
May Godbless you all,
Your brother in Christ,
ian

Today was Christmas of sorts here in Kangemi. As a gesture towards the surrounding community, Ft Michael organizes 400 packages containing 1kg of a special flour (especially prized here for making japati a wheat based flat bread), some lollies and a letter. The kids were wild, and the adults extremely appreciative as we systematically knocked, gave and explained. The smiles, the joy and the animation are enough to fill a thousand dreams, a hundred boring lectures, and certainly my remaining time here.
Different to yesterday, the kids and families were somewhat aware of the goings on, it quickly becoming a yearly tradition (the children since discovering I come from AJAN have been asking me ‘what do we get this year?’).
Having the great honour to be able to deliver these gifts to householders is something I will never ever forget. As you walk to the door and knock there is often a hesitant peering through a crack then a slow opening. Many, it being their first time, didn’t understand the idea of a gift and once receiving stood stunned in the door way. Others invited us in for tea, sometimes so persistently it took a while to negotiate your get away.
Standing there watching I thought back over the many Christmas’s. Each child unwrapping the dozens of presents that have been piled under the tree, never once have I seen so many expressions of gratitude, so full of life than this December.
I will sleep well tonight and at least those in Kangemi shall sleep with a full stomach.

Me with Peter one of my boys from the AJAN gate